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Want Italian Wine in Australia ? Italophile Says The Time Is Now

June 2, 2015 By

 


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Amid a tongue-twisting litany of Italian wine varietal minutiae leading his recent article in Australia’s Financial Review, wine and drinks writer Tim White offered the wine-drinking masses a unique look into the emergence of Italian wines in the Land Down Under.
 
White pointed out that Australia’s Chalmers nursery is exerting “pioneering efforts” in creating “vine stocks of Italian cultivars” that “are as good as you’ll find them in their homeland.” 
 
In fact, White pointed out, “there are more than a dozen clones of sangiovese available now in Australia.”
 
Though the Italian side of Australian winemaking is still in its relatively early days, White said he’s had a chance to try some decent sippers. 
 
He included in some of the wines he tried in a longer litany of Italian varieties that could give “Finnegans Wake” a run for its money.
 
“There’s sagrantino, colorino, schioppettino, canaiolo, nero d’avola, negroamaro, montepulciano, aglianico, marzemino, refosco, lagrein, the lambruscos salamino and maestri …  as well as arneis, greco, fruilano, fiano, ribolla, giallo, and, as many wine lovers will be aware, vermentino, which is being made in some quantity now into many highly credible, damned toothsome, white wines.”
 
White said he’s tasted “some fabulous nero d’avolas recently” as well  as “some good montepulcianos, too.”
 
He then went on to point out that the significance of the emergence of Italian wines isn’t just a matter of new smells and tastes. 
 
“All this interest in Italians is … most importantly about structure: and, specifically, acid,” he wrote. “The vast majority of the cultivars listed above all maintain good levels of natural acidity in warm – and getting warmer – Australian winegrowing regions, unlike most (although not all) of the more widely planted French-origin grape varieties.” 
White then went on to list several wine bars Aussies should visit if they’re looking for a decent Italian wine experience. 
 
Sydney’s Vini, he said, is an adventure for even the most seasoned lover of Italian vino. 
 
“There is so much that is interesting and out there on the blackboards at Vini that even a devout Italophile might flounder,” he said.
 
Melbourne’s Ombra is a formidable wine/dine option, he said. 
 
“It was love at first bite for me with a combo of ‘nduja pizza, lamb ribs, and Greenstone sangiovese,” he wrote. “House white ribolla is delicious.” 
 
When in Canberra, stop by Mezzalira, he recommend: “Superior service, smart food, and a seriously good list by the glass and bottle,” he said. 
 
Last on his list was Bar Torino, an Adelaide establishment that will “take you on trip from Turin to Barcelona via the conduit of vermouth and a plate of paella(!). A couple of well-chosen glasses will abate any confusion.” 
 

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