Wine Talk

Snooth User: panoskakaviatos

Why 2008s whites will outlast 2009s in Burgundy: Paul Pernot video and TNs

Posted by panoskakaviatos, Jun 4, 2011.

Paul Pernot in Puligny Montrachet is an authentic vigneron. And his wines are almost always very well made. Not much new oak in his whites, which we tasted – did not get to his reds. This was my second visit at his estates in Puligny Montrachet. We tasted many 09s, which were good enough for the vintage, some even very delicious, but the few 08s we tried are probably more interesting for the long run. If you do not have premox.


Two very different vintages. In 2008, harvest ended at the beginning of October. In 2009, the harvest was from 7-15 September. And although alcohol levels were similar, 2008 had one full gram of acidity more: 4.8 grams per liter as opposed to 3.8 in 2009. Now, I found some 09s flabby, but others well worth the price of admission. Take the simple villages wine at just €22 per bottle. Same price for the 2008, but the 2009 is more flattering today. A sure sign of the demand however for the 08s is their paucity. Most are sold out, while you can still get some 07s and of course 09s. Pernot thinks that 07 is a bit more longer term than 09… and I recall loving the 07s when I tried them from barrel almost two years ago.


Here the video:


Puligny Montrachet 2008. Good richness on the attack, a tad thin on the mid palate – lot of acidity – but the finish is reassuringly full. The Puligny Montrachet 2009 is almost tropical by comparison, certainly less structured, even a tad flabby, but lots of juicy fruit. When tasted again at the end of the tasting I almost wanted to mix the two!


Meursault Blagny La Pierre sous le Bois 2009. Spearmint like nose, freshness, pears on the palate, although somewhat diffuse and a tad warm on the finish. OK


Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres 2009. Here we have about 30% new oak (earlier wines had none), showing licorice, pear, very rich and broad, a bit too thick for my taste, even somewhat warm?


Puligny Montrachet Clos de la Garenne 2009. Firmer, more mineral, perhaps not immediately exciting, but the palate has more structure and is more interesting to me.


Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles 2009. A mix of the two previous wines? Orange blossom nose, a hint of wet stone, richness but not over the top. Nice job! And so popular that both Jürgen Steinke and Mike Grammer who tasted with me bought some of that.


Bienvenue Batard Montrachet 2009. Here we have 40% new oak. Bottled in August. Very rich. Somewhat tropical. There is a veritable volume to this wine but also quite elegant. Is there just a hint of heat?


Batard Montrachet 2009. 45% new oak. Herbal notes, basil. Subtle richness, wintergreen, a cooler aspect, but also opulent. Very successful.


Batard Montrachet 2008. My goodness what difference acidity makes. Here we have a wine that had been opened the day before, carafed and from a half bottle to boot, yet was very fresh while also showing off yellow peach and floral scents and flavors. I see why this is sold out.


Complete tasting notes from my visit to Burgundy, which includes Jacques Frederic Mugnier,Mugneret-Gibourg, Taupenot Merme, Bouchard Pere & Fils and many more CLICK HERE.


Reply by dmcker, Jun 4, 2011.

Thanks for this closeup, which does a good job of capturing those vintages' differences, including the acidity and ageability of the 2008 vs. the more immediate availability of the 2009 Beaunes...

I also liked your interview with Hugh Johnson here, where he dodged your bullet on naming classic vs. over-the-top-modern labels in Bordeaux, but was intriguingly good, I thought, on how the best wines end with a question mark, not an exclamation point--questions about them, and about us tasting them. 

Reply by JonDerry, Jun 4, 2011.

Interesting topic, especially with the 09' burgundy reds getting so much attention right now.

In checking out your other videos, definitely a treat to see Hugh Johnson in a casual interview, looks like you caught him at the right time.  Also enjoyed the 89' Montrose video, gives me extra incentive to get a hold of some bottles with both of you guys strongly recommending.


Reply by Stephen Harvey, Jun 7, 2011.

Panos - really good stuff

Do you have any 08 White B's that really excite you.  Happy to spend a fair tariff but say keep to under 150 Euro unless it is "unbelievable"


Reply by dmcker, Jun 7, 2011.

So Stephen, you looking for Chablis or for Beaune?

Reply by Stephen Harvey, Jun 7, 2011.

D - I like both styles so any reco's are welcome - Chablis seems to me to be better value for money as a very prima facie observation

Reply by panoskakaviatos, Jun 9, 2011.

Stephen, thanks for reading. I would go for Bouchard Pere & Fils Meursault Les Clous or the aforementioned Puligny Montrachet villages wine from Pernot. You could also go for some Simone Bize whites which are rather affordable and taste very well in 2008.

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