Cabreo Il Borgo Cabernet Sauvignon. Sangiovese Tuscany 2004

The estateandrsquo;s 2004 Il Borgo is surprisingly lean in this great Tuscan vintage. A French oak-aged blend of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, it reveals an attractive color and dark ripe fruit, but it comes across as clenched and not particularly generous, qualities that are not in synch with the finest wines in 2004. Bottle age is unlikely to make a significant difference. This is the first year Il Borgo is made under the direction of consulting oenologist Attilio Pagli, and hopefully he will be able to maximize this wineandrsquo;s potential going forward. Anticipated maturity: 2009andndash;2016.

The estate’s 2004 Il Borgo is surprisingly lean in this great Tuscan vintage. A French oak-aged blend of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, it reveals an attractive color and dark ripe fruit, but it comes across as clenched and not particularly generous, qualities that are not in synch with the finest wines in 2004. Bottle age is unlikely to make a significant difference. This is the first year Il Borgo is made under the direction of consulting oenologist Attilio Pagli, and hopefully he will be able to maximize this wine’s potential going forward. Anticipated maturity: 2009–2016.

Intense aromas of blackberry, toasty oak and chocolate. Full-bodied, with big, juicy fruit and lots of spicy, peppery and fruity character. Long and luscious. Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best after 2008.

Cabreo's 2006 II Borgo (70% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon) offers gorgeous purity in its bright red fruit, flowers and spices. The wine reveals outstanding depth and length in a mid-weight style, with a refined, poised finish and lovely overall balance. Another year or so in bottle should help smooth the tannins, but in this vintage the French oak (30% new) seems much better integrated than it has been in the past. This is a commendable effort from the Folonari family. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2021.

Cabreo is a bulldozer of a wine with brawny power, solid dimension and hearty aromas of smoked bacon, black ink, tar and chocolate fudge. The blend is 70-30 Sangiovese and Cabernet and the dense concentration achieved with these two grapes is remarkable.

This is dark and rich, with loads of blackberry and currant aromas. Full-bodied and very ripe, with soft, velvety tannins. Rich and luscious. Goes on and on. One of the best Cabreos in a long time. Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best after 2011.